Revealed: the secret of Shanghai's soup dumplings

These tiny soup-filled dumplings are taking over the world. We find out how chefs get the soup inside each delicate xiao long bao dumpling - and other fun facts about it.

Xiao long bao is a must-try in Shanghai.
  • Rachel Gray
  • April 2019

They’re the most famous of Shanghai’s steamed dumplings – and the most mysterious but where did they come from? Here, we unwrap the secret of these delectable packages and explain how they should be eaten.

What are they?

Xiao long bao, or soup dumplings, are delicate pleated parcels filled with pork meat and broth. Don’t make the mistake of thinking they float in soup – the rich, savoury liquid is encased inside the dumpling.

How are the dumplings made?

Traditionally, xiao long bao is filled with a pork mixture made with pork mince and aspic (a savoury jelly made from meat stock) or gelatinised broth. The filling is wrapped in a thin yet firm wheat flour wrapper and then steamed, which melts the aspic into an umami-rich liquid.

These delicately pleated parcels need to be handmade
These pleated parcels need to be handled delicately.

How do you say xiao long bao?

Pronounced shau-long-bau, the name of this popular Chinese dish means “little basket bun”, dubbed so after the bamboo baskets in which they are steamed. Late celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain had another name for them: “pillows of happiness”.

What’s the right way to eat them?

Resist the urge to pop a whole soup dumpling into your mouth – you run the risk of burning yourself when the hot liquid spurts out. To devour these dainty packages like a local, gently pick up your dumpling with chopsticks, place it on your spoon, nibble it open and slurp out the delicious broth. Then you’re free to eat the rest of the dumpling. Tip: dip it in a little black vinegar with ginger first.

It takes two hands to eat xiao long bao without spilling.
It takes two hands to eat xiao long bao without spilling.

What’s the history of the soup dumpling?

The origin of these tasty morsels dates back to the 1870s, when it’s said Shanghai chef Huang Mingxian added aspic to his pork mince before sealing and steaming his dumplings.