Fly to Seoul

Glimpse Korean culture among the hilltop alleys and traditional Korean hanok houses at Bukchon Hanok Village. It's a real-deal, centuries-old residential area, where some residents open their ornate doors as teahouses. Nearby explore the Five Grand Palaces where kings lived. Gyeongbokgung stands out for its colourful changing of the royal guards ceremony. While Changdeokgung wows with secret gardens; and circling Deoksugung Palace's wall feels romantic. There's more grandeur at Jogyesa and Bongeunsa temples; Korean-art treasure trove National Museum of Korea; and contemporary Leeum Museum of Art.

Just wandering Seoul's neighbourhoods is a delight. In university town Hongdae, a narrow converted train line turns into a BYO picnic party on warm afternoons along Gyeongui Line Forest Park. Here and in hidden Yeonnam-dong and Hapjeong, you'll find K-style fashion and K-beauty, coffee roasters, dessert cafés and jazz bars. Itaewon is the grungy, clubby cousin. Don't miss Ihwa Mural Village or Mullae Art Village for street art. For traditional art, explore Insadong and the photogenic lovers' laneways of Ikseon-dong for elegant teahouses and flower-filled cafés within centuries-old hanok.

On every corner, food is a delight in Seoul. In Myeong-dong, aromas hit you with honey fried chicken, eomukguk fishcake soup or sticky tteokbokki riceflour cakes. The sprawling Gwangjang Market, one of the oldest, lets first-timers scope it all in one spot among the sizzle. Its famous food stalls serve spicy kimchi mandu dumplings, kimbap Korean sushi, and signature bindaetteok mung bean pancakes. Or try the filling bibimbap rice bowls and kalguksu noodles. Wilder yet, soondae stuffed intestines. Save space for milky makgeolli rice wine or sugary hotteok pancakes stuffed with sunflower seeds.